Bob's Monthly Garden Checklist-July - Cooper Young Garden Club | Official Organizer Of Cooper Young Garden Walk

It’s the 4^th of July….take the day off!

Fertilize annuals in July. Please note: Annuals are heavy feeders and must have a continuous supply of nutrients to stay good looking.
Boost flower power – remove faded flowers to encourage annuals to produce more blooms. Deadheading also encourages some perennials to bloom again – such as coreopsis, purple coneflower, rudbeckia, phlox, shasta daisies, and black-eyed Susan.
Water wisely – look at plants carefully before you water. Wait until they show signs of wilt then water deeply and thoroughly.
To prevent diseases, water plants and lawns early in the day so that the foliage dries before sunset.
Remember to check new plantings throughout the summer:

- Trees and shrubs will need a good soaking every week through the first growing season.
Herbaceous perennials will need regular watering at least for the first couple of months.

Summer swelter is here! Plants will need consistent moisture more than ever. Spread a couple of inches of mulch atop the soil now. Mulch cools the soil surface and reduces moisture loss.
Give azaleas an application of cottonseed meal. Pinching out tips of new swigs on azaleas between now and August 15^th will give increased bloom next winter/spring.
Bearded iris can be divided 6 ~ 8 weeks after they have bloomed e.g. in late June or July.
Pinching back the growing tips on your chrysanthemums around July 4^th will yield a stronger, healthier, bushier flowering plant this fall. Same can be said for most fall-blooming plants such as aster, camellia, celosia, salvia, torenia, and zinnia
Many other plants will benefit from pinching to encourage branching including plants such as asters, marigolds, zinnias, sedum, gomphrena and even petunias.
Avoid getting water on the leaves of annuals whenever possible. Powdery mildew can become a problem, especially on zinnias but can show up on a wide range of plants.
Do not prune spring-flowering shrubs and hedges because buds are starting to form now.
Mid-summer is a good time to remove branches from “bleeder: trees that drip sap when pruned in the winter. These include maple, dogwood birch and elm.
Japanese beetles are here. Handpick or use an appropriate insecticide. DO NOT use pheromone traps….they attract many more beetles than you would otherwise have.
Optional – Picture #2

Check daily for signs of disease or insect damage
Herbs are generally pest free. However, they sometimes get red spider mites and white fly. Infected plants can be sprayed with tepid soapy water.
Check the label of all insecticides and fungicides before applying. Pay attention to the number of days to wait before harvesting and the crops and pests on the label.
Vegetable gardens need one inch of water each week. Provide a good soaking if rain is not adequate. Use drip irrigation or water in the morning. A rain gauge is a great gardener’s aid.
Once cucumbers, squash and green beans begin to fruit, check them daily….fruit matures quickly and is best harvested while young and tender.
You can still plant late crops of squash bush beans, and cucumbers before mid-July. Start seeds for broccoli, collards, cabbages, and parsley.
Cut back basil, mint and oregano to keep them compact, encourage new foliage growth and prevent these herbs from blooming and going to seed.
Keep a record of what is planted where and what varieties you grew. You will need this information next year for crop rotation.

To reduce the spread of brown patch fungus disease in the lawn, avoid mowing and walking on the lawn when it is wet.
Fertilize Bermuda and zoysia lawns with a complete fertilizer.
Mow fescue and bluegrass lawns three (3) inches high. Shorter grass will become drought-stressed and will be more subject to weeds.
Water lawns any time it shows signs of stress – bluish-gray tint in color, foot-prints remaining when you walk on it, and wilted, curled or folded leaves
Raise mower blades to 2 1/3 to 3 inches for hot dry weather

Paige’s containers

ALWAYS READ THE LABEL – Take a fresh look at the label is important whenever using garden insecticides – whether chemical or organic. Labels tell you what disease, insects or weeds will be controlled, where the product may be used, and any safety precautions.
Tropicals (canna, banana, gingers) typically love moisture – be generous!
If you are going to be away from home for more than a one week arrange to have the garden watered and the grass mowed.
Keep birdbaths clean and filled with water
Hanging baskets are especially prone to water loss and require very frequent watering.
Provide support for climbing plants, and tie in the shoots as they grow.
All spring flowering shrubs should be thinned out by cutting the old wood off at the ground, leaving only the young healthy branches for next year’s season.
Trees not bearing fruit may produce a lot of water sprouts. Prune them out now to reduce excess growth.
Protect honeybees. If you must use an insecticide (even organic) spray late in the evening when few bees are active.